5 min read • Jason Solutions · Richmond, VA
Virginia winters can swing fast — 65 degrees one week, 20 degrees the next. Getting your heating system ready in September or October is always smarter than scrambling when the temperature drops.
Check Your Furnace or Heat Pump Now — Not in December
Every fall I get a wave of emergency calls in Richmond from homeowners whose furnace hasn’t run since March. After sitting idle for six months, things can go wrong: igniters crack, belts stiffen, drain lines clog. A system that worked fine last winter may not fire up when you need it most.
The solution is simple: turn your heating system on in early fall, before you actually need it. Run it for 30 minutes and pay attention.
What to Listen and Look For
- 🔥 Burning smell on first use: Usually just dust burning off internal components. Normal — should clear in 15–30 minutes. If it lingers or smells like burning plastic or rubber, shut it off and call.
- 💨 Weak airflow from vents: Could be a dirty filter, blocked duct, or a blower motor issue. Start with the filter — replace it first.
- 🔊 Rattling, banging, or screeching: Loose panels, failing belts, or motor bearings. Don’t ignore these — they get worse fast.
- 🌡️ System runs but room stays cold: Thermostat calibration, refrigerant (heat pump), or heat exchanger issue. Time to call a pro.
- 💧 Water around the unit: Clogged condensate drain or frozen coil. Common on heat pumps in cold weather.
Furnace vs. Heat Pump: Know What You Have
Richmond homes use both. Knowing which system you have affects how you maintain it:
Gas Furnace
Burns natural gas to generate heat. Watch for:
- Yellow or flickering flame (should be steady blue) — possible carbon monoxide risk, call immediately
- Pilot light or igniter issues on older units
- Heat exchanger cracks — a serious safety concern that produces CO
- Filter replacement every 1–3 months during heating season
Heat Pump
Moves heat from outside air into your home. Highly efficient down to about 35–40°F, then auxiliary heat kicks in. Watch for:
- Ice buildup on the outdoor unit (some is normal, a solid block of ice is not)
- Auxiliary heat running constantly even in mild temps — inefficient and expensive
- Reversing valve issues — symptom is heat pump blowing cool air in heating mode
Not sure which system you have? Look for ‘GAS’ or ‘ELECTRIC’ printed near the unit, or check your utility bills — a heat pump home typically has high electric bills in both summer AND winter.
Don’t Forget the Thermostat
A lot of heating complaints I get turn out to be thermostat problems, not furnace problems. Check:
- Replace batteries in battery-powered thermostats every fall
- If you have a smart thermostat, verify the schedule is set correctly for winter mode
- Test the heat setting directly — switch to HEAT, set 5 degrees above room temp, and listen for the system to kick on
- If the thermostat shows the right temp but the furnace won’t start, the issue is likely wiring or the control board
Protect Your Pipes While You’re at It
Heating and plumbing go hand in hand in winter. While you’re prepping for cold weather:
- Know where your main water shutoff valve is
- Insulate pipes in unheated spaces like crawl spaces, garages, and exterior walls
- Keep cabinet doors under sinks open on very cold nights to let warm air circulate
- If you’re leaving town, set the thermostat to no lower than 55°F — never turn heat completely off
Frozen pipes that burst can cause $5,000–$70,000 in water damage. It’s not worth the heating bill savings.
💡 Pro Tip from Jason: I offer heating system check-ups across all of Richmond and surrounding counties before winter hits. Call in September or October for the best availability. I’ll check your system top to bottom and tell you honestly what it needs — nothing more.
When Is It Time to Replace?
If your furnace or heat pump is over 15 years old and you’re facing a repair over $800, replacement is often the smarter financial move. Today’s systems are dramatically more efficient. I can walk you through the math on your specific situation.